Thursday, September 10, 2009

South to Vancouver, Day 3

Day 3 - Juneau, Alaska

Our return visit to Juneau started out with cool temperatures and light rain. Since the Radiance was docked a bit further from downtown than last week, we set out for a walk to collect some free gifts from one of the many coupon books we had received, and to do  a little shopping.

We were back at the dock in time to catch the shuttle to our Gold Panning Adventure and Salmon Bake. We were taken to the former site of a thriving gold mine by our friendly and knowledgeable native guide, who proceeded to introduce us to the fine art of panning for gold.

After instructing us in the panning and washing of the gold flakes. he handed each of us a pan filled with silt, and we staked out spots along the creek bed to wash, swirl and hopefully separate the gold from the silt.Fifteen minutes or so later we were all examining our tiny souvenir vials of water in which floated the fruits of our labour: several tiny flakes of brilliant gold.

From there our guide drove us to our lunch, the Famous Salmon Creek Salmon Bake. We were greeted by gracious hosts who lead us to long tables and passed out cups of hot, delicious clam chowder. We were then left to load up our plates with salad, wild rice pilaf, baked beans, cornbread and savoury grilled Sockeye Salmon. We ate our fill and headed back to the ship for some late-afternoon downtime in the Thermal Suite before meeting other frequent cruisers for a tour of the navigational bridge.

Another sailaway, another bottle of champagne, and another great day on the Radiance of the Seas.

Tomorrow : Skagway




South to Vancouver, Day 2

Day 2 - Hubbard Glacier

The  weather for this trip to the Hubbard Glacier was even better than it had been the week before. By the time the Captain announced our arrival, we were in tee-shirts and sunglasses on the aft balcony. Despite the warm weather, we went ahead with our plan to serve hot chocolate with Bailey's and cookies from Room Service to our guests. Along with Bob and Vita, we chatted and snapped photographs from our vantage point on the aft of the ship.

The ship had just completed a 180 - degree turn showing us the full face of the Glacier when a massive chunk of the face of the icebank went crashing into the ocean with a monstrous roar, causing a wave to race toward the ship and making us hang onto the rail when it reached us. Not long after that, a huge piece broke free from the right edge of the Glacier and also went sliding into the sea, announcing its presence to all onboard. We sailed away feeling blessed to have been given this awesome show.

Tomorrow : Juneau

South to Vancouver : Day 1

Seward, Alaska : Turnaround Day (Day 1 Southbound)

We arrived in Seward to sunny skies and a friendly welcome. We made our way to the dock at Small Boat Harbour and the Kenai Fjord Tours vessel Explorer for our 10-hour trip. The day was chilly and I was thankful for the waterproof, insulated jacket I had purchased in Ketchikan the week before. We set out with our young Captain and his crew to observe the local wildlife of Alaska. The ocean swells were large and plentiful, so much so that I began feeling very 'green' and had to sit out a lunch of Caesar wrap and baby carrots. Luckily I had brought some anti-nausea medication and was fine as soon as it 'kicked in'.

Although the whale-watching was a bust, as it had been on a previous trip this week, we were thrilled to see bald eagles, sea lions. puffins, and sea otters, and the weather was sunny and fairly warm. On the long trip back to Seward we were delighted to learn that we were to be delivered to the lodge on Fox Island for a buffet lunch of salmon, prime rib, rice and dessert. For a fee, you could also purchase a pound of Alaskan King Crab, shelled and ready to eat, and we did.


We sadly had to say goodbye to Barry and Dorothy, Pirate friends from Florida. They accompanied us on our Kenai Fjords cruise and amid much hugging , bid us farewell until next time. Back on board the Radiance, we checked in and completed some first-day business, including meeting our new neighbours Bob and Vita from Arkansas, and re-connecting with two Mariner Repo friends, Bill and Mariana from California.We invited them to join us and our other Pirate sailors for champagne on the balcony as we sailed away from Seward. We were delighted to discover that Bob is an amateur magician, and he treated us to an impromptu magic show in our cabin.

Another great day and a great start to Cruise number 2, Alaska Southbound.

Tomorrow: Cruising by the Hubbard Glacier

North to Alaska -Day 7


Day 7 : Hubbard Glacier

We were awakened by the Captain at 6:20 a.m. with an announcement that we were entering the bay. Having planned a small breakfast party on our deck , we got up to receive the room service order of pastries, fruit and coffee to be shared with our fellow travellers.

Before long we noticed that the mountains we had been observing off the port side were increasing in size,  and shortly after that the announcement that we were all waiting for blared through the loudspeakers: we were to sail to within a 1/4 mile of the magnificent Hubbard Glacier. We waited patiently on our aft balcony until the Glacier came into full view.

The Hubbard Glacier is absolutely breathtaking. It is magnificent and vast, with waves of turquoise-blue coloured ice. And the sound it makes is just as indescribable. Creaks, groans and 'gunshots' permeated the still morning air, along with the rumbling of "white thunder".

We stayed on our balcony and welcomed friends with Mimosas, giving them a great vantage point when the Captain rotated the ship to starboard.  We were able to see several small 'calving' events and snapped hundreds of photos in the meantime. After a chilly couple of hours , we departed the Hubbard Glacier and continued to enjoy the sights and sounds of the Radiance of the Seas in Alaska.

Tomorrow: Disembarkation in Seaward (for some people!)


Thursday, September 3, 2009

North to Alaska Day 6

Day 6 : Icy Strait Point

As all of our cruise days have before , today dawned with a high cloud cover and the promise of better weather ahead. This was the only tender port of our cruise, meaning that the ship does not dock but anchors in the harbour while the guests ride to and from shore in the life boats.

Icy Strait Point is actually the small native community of Hoonah. Its pier area has an abundance of shops, a restaurant, boardwalk and several walking trails. Once the sun had arrived for the day, we strolled among the shops and stopped for a bite in the restaurant. I had decided to try the Ziprider, the world's longest zipline at a full mile.A 90 second thrill ride takes you from a platform high above the town to a landing pad outside of the Landing Zone bar.

The other 3 members of my little travelling group waited for me at the pier while I boarded the bus for the 40-minute ride to the top of the mountain, 1300 feet above the town. We stopped at several lookouts along the winding dirt road and listened to an entertaining narrative by James, our bus driver. Once at the top we walked down a steep gravel road to the launching pad and lined up to await our fate.

One by one we were strapped into a harness chair and told to brace our feet against the gate in front of us. At a count of 3 the gates were opened and we soared out over the treetops towards the pinpoint of land which was out target. It was an adrenaline rush that left my legs shaking when I reached the bottom! I had managed to hold my camera out to my side on 'video' mode and captured the entire ride, albeit at some strange angles as I tried to keep myself from spinning in the harness. I was greeted at the landing pad by my friends and we went for a celebratory beer before heading back to the ship.

Tomorrow : Cruising by the Hubbard Glacier.

North to Alaska Day 5


Day 5 - Skagway, Alaska

After our daily routine of meeting the Roziers for breakfast in the Windjammer, we disembarked onto the  pier at Skagway. A shuttle was waiting to take us to the 'downtown area' of this quaint goldrush community, with its historic facades and turn-of-the-century feel. We strolled past the Red Onion Saloon and Brothrel , browsed in the bookstore and took photos of the White Pass Railroad Station. After checking out the area and filing away ideas for our return visit next week, we shuttled back to the Temsco Helicoptors office to await our flight to Meade Glacier.

We arrived long with Nancy at the check-in desk only to find that our 11:30 flight had been cancelled due to low clouds. We decided to reschedule for 12:45 in hopes that the sun that had followed us to the other ports would eventually find its way here. After grabbing a quick lunch in the Windjammer we were pleased to find out that our flight was a 'go' , and we were soon being briefed on safety and outfitted with floatation vests and glacier boots.

Once dressed for the trip and eager to take off, we lined up as instructed and were helped onto a waiting helicoptor. Three choppers took off in formation for the 20 minute flight to the Glacier. It was an amazing ride over the town of Skagway, lakes and fjords to the impressive river of ice. After a smooth landing we were helped from the helicoptor and greeted by our guide for the glacier walk.

Words do not do justice to the feeling of walking on this centuries-old icepack, the crunching of our footsteps on the uneven surface the only sound except for the wind and the fluttering of the Alaskan flag. The sun had indeed found us once again and the air was remarkably crisp and clean. Our naturalist guide walked us over the ice to gaze into a crevass and listen to the rushing water far below. He explained how the glacier was formed , how crevasses appear and how small streams of glacial water swirl around to drill holes into the giant ice surface. Stopping by a thin rushing stream that appeared turquoise in the September sun, he encouraged us all to dip our hands into the pristine water and drink the purest liquid we would ever taste. It was icy cold and exhillarating.

We walked and snapped priceless photos until we were informed that the choppers were on their way to pick us up. In a scene reminiscent of the "M*A*S*H" opening moments, three helicoptors appeared over the ridge and settled on the ice to pick us up for the return trip to Skagway. Thrilled and delighted by our experience, we settled in for the picturesque ride back to town.

As the Roziers headed back to town, we waited for the shuttle that would take us on the next part of our trip, the Mushers Camp and Dog Sled Adventure. We were taken 40 minutes outside of town to the Mushers' Camp, where Alaskan huskies are bred, raised and trained for endurance races such as the Ididerod and the Yukon Quest.

First on the agenda was a 'dogsled' , actually a 6-seater wagon pulled by 15 lean and muscular dogs for a wild 1 and 1/2 mile ride. We were instructed as to which dogs we could approach and pet after dismounting from the wagon, and we scratched the ears of the friendlier ones. Next we were treated to a lecture by a top dog handler who explained the care and handling of the Alaskan Huskies. And then the final treat of the afternoon : one-on-one time with 2-week-old puppies, whose mother, Stormy, kept a worried eye on us while we cuddled her babies.

We arrived back in Skagway tired, happy and smelling of puppy. Another great day in Alaska. The evening would bring another fine dinner with friends and a show by the Motown tribute group, Spectrum, always a crowd favourite.

Tomorrow : Icy Strait Point

North to Alaska Day 4


Day 4 - Juneau, Alaska

The day started out as all our days, with low clouds and mist over the mountaintops. We were up early to catch our whale-watching tour with Orca Enterprises and Captain Larry. The office was easy to find, and along with the Roziers and Dave's friend John we were soon on our way to the docks to embark on our excursion on the purple Orca boat.

Along the way to the area where Captain Larry had recently seen whales, we were treated to the sight of majestic bald eagles perched on rocks, and sea lions playing on the buoys. Although the wind was brisk, we were warm and dry in our new waterproof, fleece-lined yellow jackets that we had each purchased at bargain prices in Ketchikan. We continued to snap photos as Captain Larry searched for humpbacks, and were soon rewarded with sightings. Although disappointed that we did not get closer to the whales, and that the gentle rolling on the surface was the only activity we witnessed, it was a nice boat ride.

After an Alaskan Amber beer in a souvenir glass at Fat Stan's Bar, we headed back to the ship to shed our heavy jackets and trade them for lighter windbreakers, as the sun had appeared and the day had warmed. We walked back to the Red Dog Saloon for lunch amidst the tinkling of a honky-tonk piano, the sawdust on the floor and the great historic ambience. We strolled and shopped until it was time to board a shuttle for the Mendenhall Glacier, where we walked the trails and photographed the beautiful expanse of ice. Back in Juneau later, we decided to make the best of this perfect Alaska day and ride the St. Roberts tram to the mountaintop high above the city. We enjoyed both the view and the cold beer at the bar and grill before taking the scenic ride back down to street leve. After a full day In Juneau, we headed back the the ship for a pre-dinner drink in the Concierge Lounge. We once again hosted our Pirate friends for sailaway, this time after dark, with the twinkling lights of Juneau fading into the night.

Tomorrow : Skagway, Alaska

North to Alaska Day 3


Day 3 : Ketchikan


Day 3 of our  Alaskan adventure saw clearer skies when we awoke early and had a hearty breakfast in the Windjammer. We then set out to go ashore and meet our guides for the day, Island Wings Air Service. Terry drove us to the dock to await the arrival of Michelle, owner of Island Wings and full-time pilot. Michelle designated each seat on the float plane, and once we were safely buckled in and had been briefed on safety, eased the float plane Lady Ester (named after Michelle's mother) out over the bay and into the air.

The flight was breathtaking, following rivers, fjords and inlets carved into the vast Alaskan landscape. Michelle made the painstaking decision that we would not be flying into the glacier because of the low cloud deck. Disappointed but determined to make the best of it, we sat back and enjoyed Michelle's narrative about the geology and geography of the area.

Suddenly, from her vantage point in the cockpit, Michelle spotted a mother Brown bear with 2 cubs on the shore of a lake. She expertly guided the aircraft in a spiral down to the surface of the lake, where we floated for 10 minutes, allowing everyone to watch and photograph the extraordinary event. The big female caught and ate a salmon as we watched, and the cubs froliced alongside the lake after taking a theatrical interest in the dead fish being devoured by Mama. We happily observed the bear family,as well as a bald eagle eating his salmon breakfast, until the bears  ambled off, leaving the lakeshore silent and serene.

At this point we were allowed to get out of the plane and onto the shore, after a few instructions from Michelle on how to disembark, as well as a stern warning to not step on a dead fish because "You won't be going back to the ship in this plane !"
Michelle is also an accomplished photographer who took photos for all the float plane passengers on the shore of the glassy lake.
After a wonderful , calm interlude on the lakeside, we once again loaded the plane and flew back to Ketchikan. A wonderful excursion , made even better by the fact that Michelle gave us a partial refund because she could not get us to the glacier.

As we had planned, we met David and Nancy for some shopping and a visit to the Lumberjack Show. This was a thoroughly interesting, interactive and entertaining show featuring the skills of 4 lumberjacks , 2 from the U.S. "Spruce Mills" and 2 from Canada "Dawson Creek". It was a great showcase of lumberjack skills, with Canada getting the win amongst much cheering. Afterward, Nancy and I had our photos taken with all 4 lumberjacks.

All that cheering required a beer, and we found a good Alaskan beer joint called 'Fat Stan's" for a delicious Alaskan Amber Ale, complete with souvenir glass. Went back to the ship for lunch and gathered, along with Roger and Kathlene, Dorothy and the Roziers for sailaway on the balcony. A good dinner and early evening followed.

Tomorrow: Juneau

North to Alaska Day 2

Day 2 : At Sea

This is a very busy itinerary which starts with a day of 'cruising' along the coastline, giving guests an opportunity to check out the beautiful Radiance of the Seas and to meet their fellow cruisers. Our Cruise Critic "Gold Rush " group had planned a slot pull for 10:30 a.m., so after a leisurely breakfast on a cool and misty balcony, we headed for the Casino Royale to meet our new friends.
A good number of cruisers showed up to feed the Wheel of Fortune machine $21, giving each person 7 spins at a maximum bet of $3. Amidst a great deal of whooping , cheering and the occasional groan, we had a great time playing the one-armed bandit. The final tally after 17 people had spun the wheels was a return of $17 each, not bad for an hour's fun.

Directly following the slot pull was the Cruise Critic "Meet and Mingle" party, where we met the rest of our happy little group. The Cruise Director, "Dan,Dan, the Party Man", was on hand to welcome us aboard and draw for several prizes. We were each given a small container of handy office supplies as a 'parting gift'.

After the Meet and Mingle we adjourned to our Cabin Crawl, where 5 parties had offered their cabin for viewing and 'refreshments'  Our cabin was last on the Crawl, and we introduced our friends to our travelling companion , Captain Morgan :) All guests enjoyed the view from our spacious balcony and agreed that it had been a sucessful Crawl.

After a lunch with Pirate friends, we checked out the Thermal Suite, relaxing on the hot tiled loungers followed by a sauna and cool shower. This evening was the first formal night, so we dressed up in our finery and met friends in the Concierge Lounge for drinks. We then had a great meal in the Cascades dining room and finished off the night with a drink at the Schooner Bar and a visit to the "Finish That Lyric' game show in the Colony Club.

Tomorrow : Ketchikan, Alaska

Monday, August 31, 2009

North to Alaska

Day 1 : Embarkation.

We met in the Marriot lobby at 8:15 for a pickup by LandSea Tours . Greg, our driver and tour guide, loaded a mountain of luggage into the back of his van and we set off for a city tour which would end at the cruiseport. For the next 4 hours we listened to Greg's entertaining narrative as he showed us around his city. With stops at Granville Island, Stanley Park, and several scenic lookouts, the tour was a great overview of this beautiful city.

After being dropped off at the port, we breezed through the embarkation process and were soon onboard. where we were warmly greeted by Dorothy and Barry, more of our extended Pirate family. We had lunch in the Windjammer, the highlight of which was , as always, the Honey Stung Fried Chicken. We then joined an informal Cruise Critic social with our 'Alaska Gold Rush' group at the Pool bar, where a familiar voice boomed out behind me "Hey, I'd know those tattoos anywhere!" I turned to hug Roger and Kathlene, more Pirate friends from Long Island.

At sailaway we greeted our Pirate buddies on our aft balcony for champagne and a chance to get re-acquainted. This was followed by more socializing in the Concierge Lounge before dinner, and carried on through an enjoyable meal at 7:30 in the Cascades Dining Room. After dinner Dave and I sat down at the Schooner Bar for a chat with friends from the Mariner Repo cruise, and finished our evening in the Centrum listening to the excellent City Lights Band. A great day and a great way to begin our trip to Alaska.

Tomorrow: A day at Sea

North to Alaska

August 27th, Vancouver : Friends come together.

After a few fitful hours of sleep and a final good-bye to Chico the cat, I set my luggage outside the front door and waited for the cab. At 4:30 a.m. the driver chided me as he hoisted bag after bag into the trunk. "Just you going?" . (It seems that whether I cruise for 2 weeks or 7, I take the same amount of luggage.) As he unloaded them 20 minutes later at the airport, he made one parting remark that the big red bag "must be the one with the kitchen sink in it".

The flights to Toronto and Vancouver were smooth and uneventful, and I passed the time watching movies on the in-flight entertainment system. "Star Trek" was a feast for the sense to this former Trekkie, and "X-Men Origins: Wolverine" was equally entertaining. Upon arrival in Vancouver I gathered my bags and set off for the Airport Marriot. Dave was less than an hour behind me arriving from Connecticut, and we met for cold beer and smoked meat sandwiches at Harold's Bar and Bistro, where Nancy and David also headed after their arrival from Georgia.

Dave connected with his friend John and the five of us agreed to meet at 5 for a ride on the newly-opened Canada Line subway and a water taxi to Granville Island, where we did a round of tasters at the local Brewpub and sat down for a light dinner at the Keg. Five weary travellers then decided to call it a night.

Tomorrow: Embarkation




Wednesday, August 26, 2009


Alaska, Radiance of the Seas, August 28th to September 11th, 2009

Prologue

"North to Alaska, go north, the rush is on".

The lyrics to the 1960 Johnny Horton song "North to Alaska" have been running through my head these last few days as I prepare for my next cruising adventure. The music brings back childhood memories, as my older brothers were big country music fans and I grew up listening to their favourite artists from the 50's and 60's.

On Thursday, August 27th, 2009, I will once again be at the Fredericton airport awaiting an Air Canada flight at an hour when most of my friends are still asleep. With a connection through Pearson Airport in Toronto, I will be on the West Coast by 10:00 a.m. local time, ahead of my travelling companions who are flying in from various states in the U.S. It will be somewhat of a treat for me to travel to a cruise port without going through Customs, as the path to embarkation ports usually leads me to or through 'the States'.

This cruise on the beautiful Radiance of the Seas, a Royal Caribbean ship on which I have had the pleasure to sail 14 days in 2007, will depart Vancouver on Friday August 28th and sail to Seward, Alaska with stops in Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway and Icy Strait Point, as well as a day cruising past the Hubbard Glacier. Once onboard, we will be united with friends from Florida who are sailing this week and next for the trip northward.We will bid them farewell in Seward, and I along with 4 others in our travelling group will re-board the ship for the southbound journey back to Vancouver.

This will be also be a mini-reunion cruise for my "Pirates of the Mariner" mateys, which include myself, my 'significant other' Dave from Connecticut, Dorothy and Barry from Florida, David and Nancy from Georgia, and Roger and Kathlene from New York. We first met on the Mariner of the Seas in September of 2007 and get together whenever we can to play Pirate and hoist a mug of 'grog'.

On September 4th, Dave and I will be joined by Bill and Mariana from California, fellow "Hornblowers" who sailed with me for 46 nights on my South American adventure on the Mariner. Cruising as much as we do means that we gather not only great memories of our travels, but lifelong friends along the way.

Dave and I have signed up for some amazing excursions for our first , but probably not last, trip to Alaska. Weather permitting, we will be flying via helicoptor onto a glacier, soaring via floatplane over fjords and lakes, whale watching, sailing with crab fisherman, panning for gold, and visiting a summer musher's camp to spend some time with the remarkable working dogs. And hopefully the skies will be clear for a ride on the mile-long Zipline at Icy Strait Point :)

So join me here in the next few days and weeks as I head "North to Alaska". See you onboard !

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Hawaii 09 - Whistler B.C.

May 9th, 2009 - Whistler, B.C.

We were once again up early to meet our guide from LandSea tours in Vancouver for our day trip to Whistler, ski resort village and home to many of the venues for the 2010 Winter Olympics. Christian, a friendly young Brit from Essex, met us promptly at 7:45 and we proceeded to pick up only 6 other passengers for the trip (3 people from Wales, a lady from Australia and a couple from Colombia). Beautiful weather and a small tour group was the perfect start to what would be a 12-hour day of touring.

Our first stop was at Porteau Cove for photos and a short walk around the provincial park there. Although we were scheduled for only a few stops to and from Whistler, we were soon to discover that Christian is very accommodating and that he would be pleased to take us to all of his favourite picturesque spots and 'not-on-the-tour-map' places.

Next we stopped at the small mining community of Britannia Beach, to shop at a family-owned jade business (they mine, cut, polish the stones and design the jewelry) and to observe with interest a convoy of movie trucks pulling into the next lot. The inquisitive Welsh lady was quick to find out that the crew was setting up to film scenes for "The Boy Who Cried Werewolf" featuring Brooke Shields and rumoured also to star the lady from the "Underworld" film series.

Our next stop was the majestic Shannon Falls, 1150 feet of rushing water amidst a lush green forest setting. We strolled up the path to the Falls to take some amazing photos, and then continued on the Sea to Sky Highway to Whistler.

Whistler is a wonderful skiing venue for the Olympics, with Whistler and Blackcombe Mountains
standing guard over the village. Restaurants, bars, shops, hotels and condominiums make up the Lower Village with its cobblestone pedestrian area. Ian and I had lunch a local beer at the Longhorn Saloon at a sunny table on the patio, passing our time watching the zipliners on a training line nearby and listening to the music from the bar. After lunch we walked through the Village, re-visiting shops we had seen two years ago and picking up a couple of Olympic souvenirs. Our last stop after our 3-hour stay in Whistler was for a smoothie and a frappachino at Mogel's which we took onto the tour van for the drive back to Vancouver.

Once again Christian had great plans for our tour group. He took us onto a closed road to the Olympic Ski Jump venue, along which he had seen a black bear recently. Sure enough we spotted a bear lounging on a roadside hill, sitting back on his haunches to scratch his belly and pose for photos. We were all delighted to take photos until we were chased away by a park ranger, to continue our trip to the ski jump venue. Christian then had us each in turn climb the stone Inukshuk, symbol of the Olympic Games, to have our photos taken with the icon. I doubt that the ranger would approve :) We once again spotted our friendly bear, and saw another one who declined to stay and be photographed.
 
We continued on our drive back to Vancouver, stopping at every vantage point and scenic lookout along the way for photos of some of the most beautiful landscape in Canada. Our next official destination was the North Vancouver Outdoor School for a nature hike among old and second-growth forests. Christian pointed out huge trees that were up to 800 years old , and we were encouraged to climb up onto the trunk of the largest for photos. A peaceful walk in the fresh air and a great end to our official tour. Of course Christian had one more unofficial stop to make, a drive to the lookout on Cypress Mountain, a magnificent view of the city of Vancouver, Washington State, and Vancouver Island. We also saw the Millenium heading to Victoria for her 2-week drydock, and a Princess ship starting her run to Alaska.

If anyone is ever interested in a day trip to Whistler, I highly recommend LandSea Tours and especially Christian.

Back at the hotel by 8 pm, we thanked our guide, dropped off our shopping bags and headed to the White Spot for supper. An early bedtime for a 6 a.m. flight, and we ended our wonderful vacation to celebrate Ian's graduation.

Where else can you end up with photos of molten lava and a majestic glacier in the same week?

Next: Prologue - A comparison of Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruiselines



Hawaii 09 - Debarkation

May 8th, 2009 - Vancouver, B.C.

On debarkation day in Vancouver, Ian and I were out of the cabin by 7:45 and off to the priority debarkation lounge in the Olympic Restaurant. Our luggage tag color was called at 8:45, and we off the ship and through Customs and Immigration within 15 minutes. However, that is where the process ground to a halt. Due to the presence of another ship in port, and the malfunction of a crane used to unload luggage, we waited a full hour for our bags. To make matters worse, most of the people who waited with us were all "VIP"s with priority debarkation as well. So the cruiseline's most important customers waited the longest for their luggage. Maybe not Celebrity's fault, but not a good situation, with many older passengers waiting in a cold warehouse with no place to sit and no communication with the debarkation agents. We even saw a wheelchair which had been checked as luggage delivered at least a half hour late. Certainly something to be cautious about in the future.

Once all our bags had been retrieved we went through an empty taxi line to a waiting cab (noticably different than our last experience in Vancouver) and were off to the Best Western Downtown on Drake Street. Even though we were several hours early for check-in, we were given a room immediately and dropped off our bags for our first day in Vancouver.

After lunch in the White Spot restaurant we started down the street to the Granville Island ferry, $5 for a roundtrip ticket. Granville Island is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening, with buskers, shops, restaurants and a huge public market. We walked and shopped for a couple of hours (Ian came away with a woven hammock chair for his apartment from a great little shop called the HangOut) and then found our way to the Granville Island Brewery for a round of 6 oz. 'tasters' of their most popular brews. We both agreed on a favourite and I bought a 6-pack to take back to the hotel room. A return trip on the colorful water taxi brought us back to the foot of Hornby Street, and we trekked back to the Best Western to drop off our treasures and rest for a bit. After trip to the Pacific Mall (a walk of several blocks on a nice evening) for a little more shopping and some supper, we arrived back at the room to enjoy our Granville Island beer and a Blue Jays game.

Tomorrow : Whistler, B.C.

Hawaii 09 Day 8

Day 8, 9,10,11 and 12: At Sea

Sunday, May 3rd began the first of our five days at sea as we crossed the Pacific to Vancouver. While the activities staff had arranged a full schedule of events for each day, Ian and I took the opportunity each day to relax and sleep in. We started our mornings with a very late breakfast of fresh-made waffles or French toast with berries in syrup and whipped cream, and then headed out for whichever items on the Celebrity Today sheet that looked promising.

Our Cruise Critic Roll Call "Connections" Party was held in Michael's Club on May 3rd and was well-attended. A lot of us had already met at the party hosted by John Cheek in the Penthouse Suite on April 27th. James Calhoun, the friendly and likable Cruise Director, welcomed us and assured us that the Cruise Critic site is indeed important to the  management at Celebrity. We then went around  the room with introductions, after which Ian and I slipped out to attend a Cabernet Sauvignon Blending event for Captain's Club Select and Elite member.

That afternoon we spent some time in the sun and continued our late - afternoon tradition of nachos and beer from the Riviera Grill at the pool, a ritual which would continue throughout the cruise. The time spent sunbathing, however, would be limited as the weather after the first sea day  turned cloudy and cool as we encountered a cold front which would accompany us all the way to the mainland. That front also meant that the calm seas that we had enjoyed around the Hawaiian Islands were a thing of the past. The Millenium rocked and rolled her way across the Pacific.

Also on the first sea day was our Cabin Crawl /Poker Run which was a great success. A group of 34 people visited each of 9 cabins, receiving a playing card at last 7 cabins from which we each made the best poker hand possible. The winner with a full house took home a pot of $340 while the low hand 'winner' was rewarded with a can of Turkey Spam ! Our Cabin Crawl concluded with drinks and hors d'eourves provided in the Penthouse Suite by our gracious host John.

Each evening we looked forward to meeting out tablemates for great conversation, laughter and the occasional bouts of silliness. Jane and Rhonda from Australia were a constant source of entertainment as they recounted their days at sea. On the second formal night, after having the traditional somber group photo taken, our little band of rebels had a second, free-for-all picture snapped. This turned out to be the favourite and several of us came home with copies. It just seemed to capture the nature of our evening meals together.

A word about the Captain's Club program on Celebrity : Even though a concierge lounge with complimentary drinks is not provided, as on many Royal Caribbean sailings, there are a number of cocktail parties for those who are Select or Elite status. Ian and I enjoyed an all-members Captain's toast in the Celebrity Theatre on the first formal night, and a party with the Captain, as well as a Senior Officers' Party for Select and Elite. We were also treated to a Champagne Breakfast (love those mimosas), a Galley tour and Backstage tour with complimentary champagne, and a morning Bridge tour with orange juice (no alcohol on the navigational bridge). All events were well done and well - attended. We also had priority tender tickets ( these came in handy when tendering into Lahaina for our private horseback riding excursion) and private breakfast lounge with priority debarkation on the last morning. More about that later.

As we approached Vancouver, the weather became even cooler and the pool area was virtually deserted during the day. Poolside entertainment was cancelled, and a planned poolside buffet was moved inside to the Cosmos Lounge. Ian and I lounged in the cabin during lazy afternoons, watching sports and movies, and napping. The balcony, although very nice to have for Hawaii, was used very little during the last 4 days at sea, and long pants were retrieved from suitcases.
A little extra excitement was added free of charge on the afternoon of the last day when some smoldering materials backstage in the Celebrity Theatre triggered an evacuation of the facility.
Those of us in other areas of the ship were unaware of the situation until the Captain announced  that the emergency had been handled, saving needless concern by a decidedly older passenger population. Later that evening while at dinner we were alerted to a medical emergency which required us to come to a full stop to allow a medical evacuation by helicopter. The efficient handling of these two incidents, along with the breathtaking view of the Kilauea Volcano spilling lava into the sea, earned my deepest respect for Captain Zisis Taramas  and his crew.

Tomorrow: Vancouver - Debarkation


Monday, May 4, 2009

Hawaii '09 - Day 7

Day 7 : Lahaina,  Maui

Our second day in Maui started off as warm as the first one. Today we were not doing a ships's excursion but were able to disembark early because of the VIP tender tickets offered to Elite Members. After being told that a bus trip to the Irowood Ranch by town bus would involve  long waits, we decided to take a cab and be safe. As instructed, I called to inform the Ranch that we were there and that we were awaiting pickup at the gate. The young gentleman arrived shortly afterward to drive us to the office, where we were given waiver forms and instructional handouts.

With the paperwork out of the way, our group of 6 and Angel the guide headed to the corral to meet our mounts. To our delight, the horses had all been given Hollywood names. Our fellow riders were helped up onto Russell Crowe, The Rock, Sandra Bullock, and Will Smith, Ian was fitted for Jet Li, and I was told that my companion for the afternoon would be Brad Pitt :). With a few individual pointers from Angel in regards to the character traits of each horse, we saddled up and headed out on the trail.

What a beautiful ride. We rode in single file, guiding the horses through the beautiful forest and valleys of the Ironwood Ranch. It was challenging to 'steer' the horses around obstacles, uphill and down and through narrow mountain trails. Brad Pitt was determined to make the ride all about him, stopping to snack at every plant and flower that caught his eye. About halfway into the ride. Angel dismounted and came around to each rider to check the tack equipment and take individual photos. We continued on until we were led back to the ranch and the corral, and were helped to dismount. Beverages and snacks were offered and gratefully accepted, and the horses were led to their places in the paddock.

A friendly couple from Seattle offered us a drive back to Lahaina, which was quickly and gratefully accepted.They dropped us off on Front Street, where we decided to spend some time at the Cool Cat Cafe, overlooking the art fair under the Banyon trees. We settled on our barstools and ordered a Longboard Lager and some onion rings while watching the scene along the street. Front Street in Lahaina is much like Duval Street in Key West with its many shops, restaurants and bars.

Our last stop in Lahaina was the Banyon Tree Art Fair, where local artists and craftspeople show their wares for the cruiseship passengers. Ian came away with a carved wooden Tiki, which the artist signed and dated for him, and we reluctantly boarded the tender for the ship and sailaway.
We were able to spend some time in the sun listening to the Kristen Lee band at poolside and enjoying the beautiful weather as the Captain declared All Aboard and we set sail for Vancouver.

Later that evening we joined the band once again for the 50's Sock Hop in the Cosmos Lounge.


Tomorrow: Day 1 at Sea

Hawaii '09 - Day 6

Day 6 : Lahaina, Maui

A cloudless blue sky and temperatures in the 80's F greeted us on our first morning in Lahaina, Maui, the second of our overnight ports (our first being the embarkation port of Honolulu). Maui is my favorite of the Hawaiian islands, with its magnificent landscape and 'hang-loose' attitude. We were up early for a full day of adventure, our first stop being the Skyline Tours Ziplining expedition.

We were met on the pier by Peggy Sue. our charismatic and fun-loving shuttle bus driver. An hour's drive through the lush green rolling hills of Central and Eastern Maui brought us to the Zipline site, as well as the office for the horseback riding excursion. Peggy Sue had us leave our backpacks and other paraphenalia onboard the shuttle, which would park and wait for us. After checking in and signing waiver forms, we were fitted for harnesses and helmets by the very capable and wise-cracking George, who along with Jimmy would be our zipline guides/'catchers' for the next 2 hours.
 
Once everyone had been fitted with safety gear we set off on a short uphill hike which would bring us to the first zipline station. Since this was an eco-tour, with part of the proceeds going towards the Maui Parks foundation, we were given short lectures on Hawaiian bird species at each station. Jimmy gave us a brief safety demonstration, instructing us to keep our hands clear of the line and to hang on with 2 fingers through the carbonnier at the top of the harness and the other hand on the vertical strap. Unlike the ziplining I had done in Puerta Vallerta in November '08, this system had no breaks but relied on the slackness of the line itself to act as a self-braking device. With  a few jokes and some nervous laughter, we each in turn stepped off the wooden platform into thin air and zipped gracefully over to the side. When speaking of the landings on the far platform, the word 'gracefully' is relative, and subject to interpretation.

With a practice run under our belts, we hiked to the next platform and onto the next zipline. Since we were only allowed individual digital cameras and no film equipment, Ian and I took turns photographing each other on the zipline by taking turns running/jumping off the wooden platforms. There were 3 more lines and a very narrow suspension bridge to cross (we crossed in single file while tethered to a safety line on the brudge). Then came the grand finale...a 750-foot long 'boomerang' line. On this particular ride, we were to zip past the wooden platform, 'climb' a pole and be momentarily suspended, 'boomerang' back past the wooden platform a second time, and be caught by the ankles by a waiting George. He then rolled a ladder into place  in order for us to be unhooked from the line and to descend to the ground A short hike led us back a waiting van which in turn took us back to the office where we congratulated ourselves on a job well done.

Arriving back at the ship by 2:30 or so, we grabbed  a bite to eat and relaxed before preparing for our next event - the Old Lahaina Luau. I had enjoyed this dinner show five years earlier and wanted Ian to experience it too. We met some other Cruise Critic friends on the pier and shared a van to the Luau, checking in and then heading next door to a small bar for pre-Luau drinks. Cliff and Pauline from Edmonton were to be our tablemates for the Luau as well, and we left the bar to head over to the venue.

We were warmly greeted with fresh flower leis and Mai Tais as we entered the Luau grounds. Our Hawaiian waiter Kyle lead us to our table and invited us to walk around and enjoy the lush scenery and photo stations. Ian and I had several photos taken together and went to examine the mud pit where the pig was roasting, to be dug up later and enjoyed by all. Another tropical drink and some hula entertainment later, the pig was ceremoniously unearthed and the meat piled onto a huge wooden platter, hoisted by two able young men and carried off to the kitchen.

When the meal was ready to be enjoyed, the tattooed Kyle led our table to the buffet area and we were left to load our plates with various Hawaiian delicacies, including the aforementioned roast pig, octopus, and taro leaves cooked in coconut milk (my personal favourite). With plates piled high and fresh drinks, we sat down to enjoy the meal, which was delicious. Once dessert had been served , we settled back to enjoy 90 minutes of wonderful Hawaiian entertainment with songs, chants, and dancing. A wonderful show and a fitting ending to a great day in Maui. We shared a cab back to the pier, did some shopping on Front Street, and headed back to the tender line for the ship.

Tomorrow : Lahaina, Maui, Day 2

Hawaii '09 - Day 5

Day 5 : Kona , Hawaii

The foggy skies over Hilo were left behind us as we dropped anchor in the harbour at Kailua-Kona on the 'dry' side of the Big Island. Where Nawiliwili and Hilo were industrial ports with few facilities near the pier, Kona's debarkation point is in the middle of town, giving many options for those who do not wish to take a ship's excursion. Because the ship does not dock here we waited in the Rendezvous  Lounge to be escorted to our lifeboat which would carry us to the pier and our excursion to the Kohala Waterfalls.

Our large group was met on the pier by guides from Hawaii Forest and Trails, and split into 3 smaller groups for the day, each with our personal guide.We set off on a narrated tour through the fascinating countryside around  Kona, with its highway cut through old lava fields that meander down from a now-extinct volcanoe. After a 45-minute drive to the small picturesque town of Hawi, we exchanged our air-conditioned 10-passenger van for a rugged open-air 6-wheel drive Swiss Army vehicle for the last portion of our trip. The starting point for the waterfall hike was located on the private grounds of a cattle ranch, and as we bounced and rattled across the pastures we indeed passed close to a bunch of cattle who looked only mildly interested at the sight of 10 tourists hanging on for dear life.

We soon reached our final destination and debarked to begin a 2 hour hike through some of the most beautiful forested areas of Hawaii. Our knowledgable guide Jon gave a walking narrative of the plants and trees as we passed, often stopping to lets us touch. smell or taste the native flora. We visited at least 6 waterfalls, pausing to take photos and listen to Jon's informative lectures.
A suspension bridge was also part of our hike, and at the last waterfall the guests were given an option to swim in the clear, cold pool before hiking back to our vehicle.

Lunch was a choice of hearty sandwiches, Maui chips, a cookie and soft drink, enjoyed underneath the Banyon trees near the Hawi Civic Center, with its life-size statue of King Kamehameha standing guard. We were then transferred once again to the 10-passenger vans for the drive back to Kona.

At the pier Ian and I decided to take the free shuttle to Hilo Hattie's, a Hawaiian chain store with authentic Aloha wear, Kona coffee, machadamia nuts and many other souvenir items. I bought a painted tile from a local Hawaiian folk artist as well as items for Ian and friends back home. We walked back to the pier area and waited in line for the next tender back to the ship. Once aboard we dropped off our treaures in the cabin and headed up to the Riviera Grill on deck 10 for our late afternoon ritual of nachos and a cold beer.

Life is good.

Tomorrow: Lahaina, Maui
 

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Hawaii '09 - Day 4

Day 4 - Hilo, Hawaii

The weather in Hilo was less than desirable when we arrived at 10 a.m. for our first day on the Big Island of Hawaii. A haze that hung over the town was later described to us as "Vog" , a fog caused by the gasses being released at the Kilauea Caldera from the Halema'uma'a Crater, the firepit where the goddess Pele makes her home. We were warned as we boarded our tour bus for a journey to Volcanoes National Park and the Caldera that the trade winds that normally keep the smoke away from Hilo were quiet, and that the air quality was very poor.

Lauren, our tour guide provided an interesting and informative narrative on Hawaii, its history, people and politics as we drove the 45 minutes into the Park. Our first stop was the Visitors center where we made several purchases to support the park operations, including a panoramic poster of Kilauea eruptions and a cd of Hawaiian music recorded inside the park with the Hawaiian Symphony . The center has a number of interesting exhibits on the geology and formation of the Hawaiian Islands. From there we headed to the Jagger Museum and the Kilauea Overlook, a vantage point which looks directly into the Kilauea Caldera and the Crater with its huge plume of gasses billowing out of the ground below. The heavy haze made photography difficult and the air quality was so bad that most visitors quickly sought refuge inside the museum, coughing and gasping. We stayed only long enough to observe the seismographs and their patient scribbling, and to look at the exhibits of hardened lava before returning to the bus and a retreat to better air.

A short drive took us to the Thurston Lava Tube, formed when rushing lava cooled around its own flowing core and left a perfectly formed tube 450 feet in length. The tube is a dark, cool, wet tunnel and was a nice respite from the choking air of the Caldera. Those who wished were let out of the bus to walk the 20-minute route through the tube and then picked up at the outlet to conclude our visit to Hilo with a stop at the Mauna Loa Macademia Nut factory. A sample of machademia nuts was given to us as we left the bus, and then it was inside for Chocolate Macademia Nut Ice Cream and a couple of souvenirs.

A good day in Hilo was followed by an entertaining early show with Carl Andrews, a magician/comedian who was very good with his sleight-of-hand and constant amusing patter. We then went to dinner, knowing that later on that evening we would be passing by Mount Kilauea. The Captain had promised to get us in close and we were not disappointed. We left dinner before dessert and hurried to Deck 20 with the camcorder and camera.

At 10 o'clock an announcement by the Captain heralded our approach to Mount Kilauea. We were told that the ship was within a quarter mile of the lava flow, and as we made our way to the upper decks, the spectacle that is Kilauea came into view ahead of us. What an amazing sight!. The red hot molten lava was flowing into the sea, the steam billowing high into the air and the night sky alight with a bright orange glow. We recorded the breathtaking scene on video and stills, and as the Captain slowly rotated the ship 360 degrees we raced to our balcony on Deck 6 to once again take in the beautiful sight.

A wonderful end to another great day in Paradise.

Tomorrow : Kona, Hawaii



Thursday, April 30, 2009

Hawaii '09 - Day 3

Day 3 -  Nawiliwili, Kauai

Kauai greeted us with cloudy skies and a fine rain. After a quick pancake breakfast in the Ocean Grill Cafe, we hurried to meet our tour bus for a visit to Waimea Canyon, the 'Grand Canyon of the Pacific'.

We were warmly greeted by our native Kauaian tour guide Juan and who proceeded to give us a thorough and informative tour of his beloved 'magic' island. The first order of business was learning a brief Hawaiian chant to ward off the rain. We must have been apt students, as the sun greeted us by the time we reached Waimea Canyon after a scenic drive around the southwestern coast of Kauai.

Kauai is called "The Garden Isle" because of its lush green landscapes, valleys and waterfalls. It is  also the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands. As we headed to the Waimea Canyon lookout, we learned of the history and culture of this beautiful paradise. Juan continued his interesting and lighthearted narrative as we passed through many small towns, past the only remaining sugar cane operation on the island and by the Kauai Coffee Plantation. We made a brief rest stop at a souvenir shop before heading to the Canyon Lookout.

Waimea Canyon is breathtaking, with its cascading colours and lush green valleys. The Lookout provides the perfect vantage point for photographing the magnificent vista, and Ian and I snapped pictures to our hearts' content. Leaving the Canyon, our last stop on the way back to Nawiliwili was at the "Spouting Horn", a rocky point where the ocean sprays up from several large blowholes as the waves crash onto the beach. Juan entertained us on the way there with a story of the mythical origins of the site, involving the fire goddess Pele, her sisters and brother.

We were back at the ship by 1 o'clock for some lunch and 'downtime' before it was time to get ready for the 1st Formal Night .

Hawaii '09 -Day 2

Day 2 - Diamond Head Crater, Honolulu

After a fairly decent night's sleep and a room service breakfast on the balcony, Ian and I left the Millenium to meet our tour to Diamond Head Crater. Once we had arrived at the National Park, our group of 24 was split in two, with those wishing to do a more strenuous hike setting off with one guide and those wanting a milder hike staying with the other. Ian and I went with the more strenuous  hike, a decision I came to question at a couple of points in the excursion!

I had hiked to the summit of Diamond Head in October of 2004 and new that the views from the top were the reward for the exertion of getting there. We set out with our group and made it to the  summit in roughly half an hour with a couple of breaks for water and local information from our guide. The views from the summit are truly magnificent and all agreed it had been worth the struggle up the 500 foot elevation on the rocky meandering path, with its 2 sets of steps ( 74 and 99 if you wish to count them). We stayed for a bit to take photos and enjoy the scenery, then started the much faster descent, to wait at the bottom for the other group.

After we were delivered back to the ship, we decided to walk to the Aloha Tower Marketplace for sunglasses and souvenirs before heading back to the Millenium for lunch and a rest.
Muster drill was to be held at 5:30 , and we decided to relax in the stateroom until then. We were to meet some Cruise Critic friends in a Penthouse Suite for drinks at 7:30 , and then off to dinner at 8:30, with sailaway from Honolulu at 11 p.m.

Tomorrow : Nawiliwili, Kauai

Hawaii '09 - Day 1

Day 1 - Embarkation

After a restless night and a room service breakfast at the Wyland, I arranged to have our bags stored at the hotel while we enjoyed a tour of the North Shore of Oahu. We were picked up at 9:00 by DiscoverHiddenHawaii Tours and delivered to our tour guide for the day, 'Cowboy'. What followed was an entertaining and informative 6-hour tour of the 'windy' side of Oahu, with stops at several beaches to watch the waves and check out the surfers. We were taken past the 'Valley of the Dinosaurs' from the movie Jurassic Park, shown the point over which the planes came in to 'Fantasy Island' (de plane, boss, de plane!!) and got out to sink our toes in the sand at Sunset Bay Beach, site of 'Baywatch'. We stopped for delicious samples of machadamia nuts and Kona coffee at Tropical Farms (and bought 2 flavours of nuts and 2 bags of coffee to bring home), and for some souvenir shopping at the Dole Pineapple Plantation. Our tour wrapped up with a lunch of local cuisine at Honey's, a restaurant founded by Honey Ho, mother of Hawaiian singing legend Don Ho.

Arriving back at the Wyland, we gathered our bags and called a cab to take us to the ship. Check-in was quick and easy, with no lineups since it was 4:30 in the afternoon. As we boarded the Millenium, we were met with a fresh flower lei for me and a shell lei for Ian, and handed a Mimosa as we entered the foyer. We were personally escorted to our cabin, a very nice service that Celebrity provides, and after meeting our stateroom attendant Leo, we set out to explore and
take photos of the ship.

Just a note for those interested, Celebrity allows passengers to bring 2 bottles of wine per stateroom on to the ship at embarkation, so Ian and I had made a quick stop at an ABC store for a Reisling and a Sauvignon Blanc, which we brought onboard in my backpack. The security guards were much more interested in the coffee and nuts in my carryon than the 2 bottles of wine, and had to ensure that the packaged food had not been opened before we were allowed to proceed.

The Millenium itself is a pleasent surprise.While not sleek and glass-encased on the exterior, like the ships of Royal Caribbean, the inside decor of the ship is absolutely beautiful! It truly made me think of a luxury hotel with its flowers, sofas, intimate clubs and spacious seating areas. The cabin is not huge but comfortable with a good-sized balcony for room service breakfasts. Robes and toiletries are provided, and the shower is nearly full-sized. Plenty of storage, and the mini-bar actually has mini bottles of alcohol in it, something unheard of with Royal Caribbean.

Our first dinner aboard the Millenium was enjoyable, with good tablemates from Vancouver, Texas and Sydney, Australia. The food is a little upscale , small portions and exotic appetizers as well as standard cruise ship fare. We stayed and chatted for 2 hours with our new friends, then went back to the cabin as the time difference once again caught up with us.

Tomorrow : Diamond Head Crater Adventure and Sailaway from Honolulu.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Hawaii '09

April 25th - A Loooong Day's Travel

We were up at 'dark o'clock' on Saturday morning in order to make our 6:00 a.m. flight to Montreal and then Los Angeles. While Chico, our feline tenant, fretted and paced, we hurried to get ready for the taxi pickup at 4:30. I was surprised with a 4:15 'wakeup call' from a friend in Orlando (thanks Freddie, my love) and with a last few treats for Chico we were off. We arrived at our quaint local airport in plenty of time for a muffin and some juice, and a chance to wake up before the flight to Montreal.

An hour and a half later we touched down in 'la belle province' at the Pierre Elliot Trudeau Airport, with the softest landing I have ever experienced. With an hour and a half between flights, we had sufficient time to collect our luggage, present ourselves at U.S. Customs, and clear security for the flight to Los Angeles.

Flying time to Los Angeles was 6 hours, plenty of time to have an onboard meal (purchased of course - the days of free meals in Air Canada coach class are long gone). We also had time to watch 2 full-length movies on the on-demand entertainment system, choosing 'Yes Man' starring Jim Carrey, and 'Quantum of Solace' with Daniel Craig. The comedy was excellent, and the James Bond movie was equally good. We passed the rest of the flight by listening to the XM radio selections.

Landing in sunny but slightly cool weather in Los Angeles, (actually colder in LA than back home in Fredericton!) we collected our bags and called for the Travelodge Motel shuttle. I had reserved a day room as a place to store our bags and grab a quick nap before our 6 p.m. flight to Hawaii. After checking in and depositing the luggage, we headed to Denny's for lunch, then went back to the room to chill out and watch a baseball game. We caught the 3:30 shuttle to the airport, grabbed a white chocolate mocha at Starbucks, and boarded the Hawaiian Airlines plane for the 5 and 1/2 hour flight to Honolulu.

A word about Hawaiian Airlines - very nice plane with an equally nice crew. The flight attendants wear casual Hawaiian shirts rather than the smart but stuffy business suits of most airlines. The inflight safety announcements were broadcast over the tv screens , and the entire flight was done with a minimum of interruptions for those of us who were trying to grab a quick nap. A small Mediterranean salad and chocolate brownie were served complimentary, but access to the inflight movie/music was $5. Since the only movie choice was 'Marley and Me", we declined, and passed our time reading, writing this blog and trying to get some much-needed sleep.

We arrived at 8:20 and after a 15 minute wait for bags we were in a cab (with a friendly cab driver who chatted and welcomed us to Hawaii) headed for the Wyland Waikiki, a boutique hotel with a great location decorated throughout with the Wyland marine life art. After a step out on the balcony to enjoy the view of the lighted pool area and the fresh night air, we headed out for a bite to eat. Bedtime came much too late, after having been up for over 26 hours.

Tomorrow: A tour of Oahu's North Shore, and embarkation.

Hawaii "09

Hi Folks!
I was surprised and pleased to find out just how many of my friends and co-workers were following my adventures aboard the Mariner of the Sea in her journey around South America and Cape Horn.
Several of you have asked if I would continue to write about my seafaring vacations, and although this blog was created primarily for the 46-night Mariner cruise, I have decided to continue to bring you all along on my future holidays (in spirit anyway).

Up next is a trip that I had promised to my son Ian to celebrate the completion of his degree in Civil Engineering from the University of New Brunswick. We will fly to Honolulu to board the Celebrity ship Millenium for a 12-night cruise around the Hawaiian islands and across the Pacific to Vancouver. We leave on April 25th and will return on May 10th, just in time for Ian to begin his full-time job with the New Brunswick Department of Transportation. This is a return trip for me, as I cruised much the same itinerary on the Serenade of the Seas in 2004 with his late Dad for our 25th wedding anniversary. This will be our first cruise on the Celebrity line, and we are looking forward to a slightly more upscale experience.

Join us as we begin our journey :-)

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Around the Horn

Epilogue

I am now back home in New Maryland, in the land of ice and snow. I still cannot believe how quickly these 48 days have flown by.

What can I say about this trip, the cruise of a lifetime for me......so far! I have nothing but praise for the Mariner and her Master, Captain Johnny. The weather was all we could have wished for, and the experience of sailing around Cape Horn is one I will never forget.

The ports of call in South America were simple wonderful, and I have no doubt that I will return to many of them in the future. Rio de Janairo, Buenos Aires, Montevideo, and Ushuaia hold many fond memories for me, as do the other new ports that we were priveleged to visit.

And last but not least, the Hornblowers. What a great group of people, strangers who became friends, and then became an extended family. I would sail with each and every one of them again in a heartbeat, and hope to do so someday. There is talk of a reunion in the future, and I hope that I can be there to re-live the wonderful experiences of sailing the Mariner.....

,,,,,,,AROUND THE HORN.

Thanks for following. I hope you enjoyed my journal, and I promise to post a link to a photo slideshow as soon as I sift through 2500 images and 2 hours of video.

See you next time.
Cindy


Around the Horn

February 19th, 2009: Disembarkation

I was up early to watch the Mariner make her way into port, as Captain Johnny maneuvered her down the channel in reverse. Ships have to back into the port here since the channel is too narrow for 360 degree turns. I saw a lovely sunrise over the port of San Pedro as the Mariner sailed into her new home. I feel very priveleged to have been able to sail with her on this historic journey.

After spending 50 minutes in line for immigration, which was done in the dining rooms on deck 4 and 5, Dave and I headed up to the Windjammer for one last breakfast while overlooking the port. Gathering up our belongings, we said goodbye to Sheldon, our room steward, and I hugged Sam, who had looked after the Diva Suite for all of our 46 day journey. We met other friends as we made our way to the waiting area, and were off the ship and on our transfer bus by 11 a.m. We planned to stay the night at the Marriot LAX to relax before flying home on Friday.

On a very sad note, we acknowledged the passing of one of our Hornblower members on the night we left Cabo San Lucas. Ken had not been feeling well for several days, and passed peacefully in his sleep at the age of 67. We had been accompanied on the whole journey by Father Dale, a Catholic priest who had been performing Masses and services, and he was now able to minister to Ken's wife Pene. A small comfort was the knowledge that Ken had spent his final days doing what he loved, sailing on a magnificent ship with friends. A minute of silence was for Ken was held at the last DVD viewing.


Around the Horn

Day 46: At Sea

Our last day on the Mothership.Though the weather was nice, the ship was rocking and rolling as we sped up the coast to Los Angeles. Due to overindulgence the night before, I could not tolerate the motion and was barely able to make it to the last DVD showing for the Hornblowers.  I passed on the last Team Trivia and went back to bed to let the Gravol take effect, while Dave packed up.

When I could once again tolerate being upright, Dave helped me retrieve my luggage and belongings from the Diva Suite and get things packed for disembarkation. I had purchased a third bag to send home full of laundry in order to pack my suitcase full of 'treasures'. We skipped the Lotus Lounge and went straight to the dining room to "The Last Supper", as it was dubbed, although our friend Paul from Texas counted the 10 people around our table and announced "We're missing two" :)

We attended the Farewell show in the Savoy Theatre and then went to the Lotus Lounge where the Hornblowers had agreed to meet to say good-bye. We each received a 3-page list of email addresses from Letty, and everyone promised to keep in touch.We made it an early night, saying our farewells to friends as we met them on our way back to the cabin.

Tomorrow : Los Angeles, the End of the Line

Around the Horn

Day 45: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Another exquisite day and beautiful sunrise greeted us in Cabo San Lucas. After catching an early morning tender boat, we waited on the pier for our 'ride' for the morning....a 72-foot yacht named the Marlin Master 5.

After being given a few guidelines by the tour coordinator, we stepped onto our home for the next 3 and 1/2 hours. Being told by the crew member that we were welcome to sit at the bow of the boat, Dave and I headed for a padded bench in the prime location. followed by 2 other couples.

The sun was glorious and the sea calm, as we headed out to our snorkeling destination off Land's End, a bay several miles away. Our course was abruptly altered, however, by the appearance of whale spouts off the bow. We headed in that direction and were rewarded with the sightings of several whales rolling and displaying their flukes. We were also taken out to see the sad sight of a dead whale floating in the bay, and while it was not a nice thing to witness, it did give us an excellent opportunity to see the real size of these giants.

Again we were alerted to whales ahead, and raced toward a smaller zodiac-type whale watching vessel. All of a sudden we were thrilled to see whales breach out of the water directly ahead, and stayed for several minutes watching the breathtaking spectacle, snapping photos and taking as much video as we possibly could. A mother and calf swam in front of us, with the baby putting on a great show as Mom glided though the water beside him. This was an unexpected bonus, as the tour was not designated as a 'whale-watching trip'.

After the excitement of the whales, we headed to the bay, and were again thrilled to have dolphins  race along beside us, darting back and forth under the bow. Once we reached the cove, the anchor was dropped and we enjoyed several rounds of margaritas and a snack while the snorkelers and swimmers enjoyed the calm waters. We stayed for about an hour and a half, and then reluctantly were taken back to the pier.

Once on land we shopped a bit and then went off to find Solomon's Landing, a local restaurant where the Hornblower fisherman were to meet with their catch for lunch. The freshest fish one could possibly get were then cooked up and served to about 30 of our friends, along with margaritas and lots of laughter. A great day in one of our favourite Mexican ports.

The fun continued long into the night and ended eventually at the Dragon's Lair disco......or so I am told :)

Tomorrow: At Sea

  


Around the Horn

Day 44: At Sea

Another beautiful sunny day off the coast of Mexico. Another Team Trivia challenge, and then a very important event....the "Finish Your Cabin Liquour" afternoon party in the Royal Family Suite, or the Diva Suite as it has been dubbed. It was designated "BYOIB" or Bring Your Own Ice Bucket", and was widely attended by many happy Hornblowers. Carol ordered snacks from room service and many new and inventive drinks were poured i.e. Mango vodka mixed with Champagne, and Pears vodka with Crystal Light Raspberry Ice. At 3:30 we trooped off to the Lotus Lounge to cheer on our own Doris (or Dorass as she prefers to be called) in the Passenger Talent Show. Doris was a smash hit with the audience as she told many of her favourite jokes.

In a surprising turn of events, several other Hornblowers were recruited to do an alleged 'dance number' and a "New York, New York" kickline (yours truly included). No doubt the aforementioned Suite party played a role in that particular fiasco.

This was the third and final formal night of the last leg, and for the last time the Hornblowers donned their finest and hit the pubs, clubs and bars for late-night music and drinks.

Tomorrow: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Around the Horn

Day 43: Acupulco, Mexico

Our very busy stay in Acupulco had us up early in order to catch our first tour of the day, the Interactive Sea Turtle Release. We boarded a bus for the 45-minute ride through the city and beautiful residential areas to the Sea Turtle Centre, where we were given a brief orientation on the mandate and the operation of the Centre. Our guide gave us facts, figures and information about the 8 species of Sea Turtles in general, and particularly the 2 species which come to the Acupulco area to lay their eggs each year, the Golfina (smallest of the species) and the Leatherback (largest). We were to release the newly-hatched Golfinas and escort them to their new home in the ocean.

The marine biologist who runs the facility goes out each evening during the hatching season and retrieves eggs from the new nests made by the female Golfinas.He then transfers the eggs to nests in an area secure from predators, and places a sign over each nest to indicate the exact date of hatching. Baby sea turtles must be released into the ocean on the very day they hatch, otherwise they will lose their imprinted orientation and will never return to the same hatching ground. Left alone to hatch in the wild, only 1 of 100 babies would make it safely to the ocean, and only 3 of 1000 will return to the same beach 8 years later to lay eggs.

Our excited group was told to line up at a flagged rope along the beautiful beach and each person was then handed a baby turtle, having been shown how to hold them between thumb and finger. The babies flapped excitedly, anxious to get to the water, as we were allowed to name them and pose for photos and video. Then, on the signal of our guide, we released our precious babies and cheered them on as they hurried to the ocean. Dave's turtle, Thing 2, raced to the water and mine, Thing 1, followed behind as we recorded their progress.

While all 40 or so babies made it safely to the ocean, one poor soul was scooped up by a passing frigate bird, much to the horror of a little girl who witnessed the capture. As her mother tried to console her. the rest of our group headed back to the centre for a beverage and snack before being bussed back to the ship.

After a lunch aboard the Mariner, we joined our second tour of the day, a much more leasurely trip on a sailboat to Acupulco Bay. The winds were favourable and we sped under full sail to a quiet cove near an island.We anchored in ordered to let people snorkel and swim, or just enjoy the beautiful views and the Mexican sunshine. We could not resist the urge to phone family back home and say hello from our seats on the sailboat in sunny Acupulco.

  Back on the ship, we prepared to spend an evening at Chops with our new Hornblower friends from Colorado, Vicki and Woody, to celebrate Vicki's birthday. At the next table sat 88-year-old actress Carol Channing, who was onboard with the Film Festival and sang Happy Birthday to a delighted Vicki.

Tomorrow: At Sea

Around the Horn

Day 41 and 42: At Sea

Two more glorious days of sun and shipboard activities on our way to Acupulco. Two more days to  soak up the sun, participate in Team Trivia, hang out in the Lotus Lounge with our many Hornblower friends, and finally recuperate from the respiratory ailments that have been plaguing us both.

Day 42 was also Valentines' Day, and I was presented with gifts of beautiful jewelry to celebrate the occasion. Yes, I am a spoiled and very lucky woman :) We passed the late afternoon hours with spa treatments and then dressed for a delicious dinner in Chops Steakhouse. Once again the service and meal surpassed all expectations.

Tomorrow: Acupulco, Mexico

Friday, February 13, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 40: Costa Rica

A beautiful, hot morning greeted us in Puntarenas, Cost Rica. Our original port was supposed to be Puerto Caldera, but the occupation of the berth by a freighter which is reported to be aground, has led to a change of venue for the Mariner. It makes no difference in the days' activities, since the two ports are only 5 miles apart.

Our tour for today was one that is sponsored by the ship, a trip into the mountains near San Jose to visit a working coffee plantation. We had done a similar excursion in Guatemala last February, and were looking forward to the same type of experience.

A two-hour bus ride to the plantation turned into 3 hours due to road construction, but that just meant that we had more time to admire the lush countryside of the province of Puntarenas. Our guide Gilberth spoke excellent english and the driver Gavriel was an expert at easing the 50-passenger motorcoach along the winding Pan-American Highway. Gilberth gave us a running narrative of the history, culture, economics and social aspects of his country.

We arrived at the plantation and were greeted by an enthusiastic staff who handed us delicious iced coffee and fresh fruit as we disembarked from the bus. They gave us a lively tour of the coffee fields and the harvesting and drying processes, even recruiting some of us as 'migrant workers' to rake the coffee beans as the husks dried in the sun. We were then driven to the roasting facility with its heavenly aromas, and taken the rest of the way through the process. A delicious lunch of traditional Costa Rican fare (fish, chicken, beef, rice, beans and fresh fruit) and a trip to the gift shop to purchase Cafe Brit coffee rounded out our trip to the plantation, and we boarded the bus to return to the ship.

Once again our 2-hour bus drive back to the port was extended. After a 25 minute rest stop at a great souvenir store, we were once again on the Pan-American Highway. Unfortunately there had been a traffic accident with a fatality, and the road was blocked for 2 hours. Captain Johnny held the Mariner in port until we returned to the dock, and we hurried onboard to enable him to set sail for Acupulco.

Despite the setbacks and the late return to the ship, we had a great day and I did a lot of shopping at the little souvcnir store. We also came away with samples of the delicious Costa Rican coffee .

Tomorrow: At Sea

Around the Horn

Day 38 & 39 : At Sea

Two more days to rest and recover from this respiratory ailment that has enveloped the ship. Dave now has it too, and many others, like me, are experiencing Round 2.

We spend our sea days lounging by the pool after breakfast, then going for a refreshing dip in the Solarium Pool to cool off before showering and heading to Team Trivia, lunch and whatever afternoon activities catch our eye on the Cruise Compass schedule.

On the evening of day 38 we made sure we were front and  centre for a performance by the Royal Caribbean singers and dancers in the production "Front Row". This medley of songs and dances from famous contemporary shows is always a treat, and the young people in the dance cast performed to their best even though one of their members was missing, sick with the same ailment that is running through the ship and their dance troup. This was the last performance of Front Row for this particular troup. as most of them will finish their current contracts in L.A. when the Mariner arrives there. Most will take a brief vacation and then begin auditions with new castmates in another Royal Caribbean production on another ship.

 On day 39 we attended a special guest appearance by Oscar-winning actress Cloris Leachman, a one-woman show chronicling her life in show business. Ms. Leachman is 82 and although getting a little forgetful (two teleprompters enabled her to keep her monologue running along somewhat smoothly) and certainly moving a little slower these days, she entertained a full Savoy Theatre for 2 solid hours of stories, songs, and film clips. She was given a standing ovation and many hugs and handshakes from fans who stood in line after the show to meet her. We were told that Cloris would disembark in Costa Rica and our new guest headliner, Carol Channing, would be joining us there.

After the show, the Hornblowers gathered in the Schooner Bar for the second and final Pub/Poker Crawl, which was won by Sue with high hand and Beryl from Australia with low hand.

Tomorrow : Costa Rica


Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 37 : At Sea

Another day to rest and relax after a busy day in port. Another day of Team Trivia and a near-perfect score of 19/20.

The Hornblowers gathered in the Schooner Bar for a group photo taken by the ships' photographers and individual/couples photos taken by Len Reese, one of our own.


This was formal night, and after dinner we attended a show in the Savoy Theatre featuring the Jimmy Dorsey Band, and a masquerade ball later with dance music by the Phantom Seven (the theme of the evening was a celebration of the Phantom of the Opera). A very good day.

Tomorrow: At Sea




Around the Horn

Day 36: Lima, Peru

Feeling slightly better after the antibiotics started to kick in, I joined Dave for a ship's tour of Lima, Peru called the Pre-Columbian Oracle Centre excursion.
 
After boarding our tour bus with our guide Hernando, we were given a brief tour and history of the city on our way to the first archeological site, the
Huaca Huallamarca centre, which operated between 200 B.C. and 200 A.D. We met Anita, a very well-spoken Peruvian archeologist, who accompanied us around the museum and led us through the various eras of Peruvian history. The museum is the home of a perfectly preserved mummy, a woman dated to 900 A.D. , whose hair circles her to a length of at least 4 feet. She sits cross-legged in  her display case and her delicate hands are intact to her fingernails.

 Our second site was the Huaca Pucllana in Miraflores. This huge site ,functional for 1200 years until the Spanish conquest, was only discovered and restored 20 years ago. We had as our guide around the site a young man who is an actual worker in the restoration process of this important site, which was an educational/religious centre. He gave us an interesting narrative of the findings of this temple, including the many discoveries of human sacrifices to the gods. Only woman and children were offered as sacrifices, and their many mutilated bodies were found lying face-down in the various layers of the temple. In contrast, the men are buried face-up in tradional funereal positions.

An earthquake in Chile last year has set the restorative process back, as the restored sections of the  huge temple are not as strong as the original brick sections, and the archeologists have had to rethink their restoration processes. The ancient ways are sometimes the best.

After an informative drive back to the ship, we thanked Hernando and left the bus to shop at the portside booths set up by local entepreneurs. I purchased a number of Peruvian items, including silver jewelry in the form of the Tome, the symbol of Peru, a backpack of woven wool cloth, and an Alpaca wool scarf. Prices in Peru are very reasonable and most merchants will deal in U.S. dollars.

We spent another lazy afternoon in the sun and the pool after an excellent morning in Lima.

Tomorrow : At Sea

Around the Horn

Day 35: At Sea

The full day in Arica and a restless night of coughing left me exhausted, and I slept in until late morning. Fortunately this sea day allowed me to regain my strength for the next port of call, Lima, Peru.

After our daily Trivia Bowl session, Dave and I headed for the pool deck for some much-needed rest and relaxation. An hour or so in the sun and a refreshing dip in the Solarium pool works wonders to rejuvenate. We rejoined our tablemates in the main dining room for the evening meal and then went to Ellingtons to listen to some jazz and dance music before retiring.

Tomorrow: Lima, Peru

Around the Horn

Day 34 : Arica, Chile

Armed with the first dose of a 5-day regimen of Azithromycin to combat this lung problem, I made my way  along with Dave to meet 30 other Hornblowers for a full days' tour of Arica, Chile. This part of Chile is vastly different from the lush landscape of Valparaiso, as the countryside surrounding Arica is brown, dry and dusty, receiving only 1 mm of rain YEARLY!. The temperature was in the mid-twenties Celsius, a typical summer day in Chile.

Our private tour (4 groups of 8 people each, as pre-arranged by Jill and Harley) began with a guided walk around the city square , where preparations were being made for a 3-day carnival, and a stop at St. Mark's Cathedral, a gift from the French and designed by Eiffel in 1876. We split up into 4 vans, each with a guide, and headed out to visit El Morro, an important lookout during the Pacific War of 1880,which provided us with excellent views of the city. Next was a viewing of geoglyphs and Colcas ( panels with drawings of animals, people and geometric figures, 1000-1400 A.D.)

Next on the tour was a brief stop at a local goat farm for a snack of fresh goat and cow cheese, fried corn niblets, a type of cereal grain and an Aymara Cocktail.Continuing on, we made several stops of interest including Poconchile (pre-Inca town), the Pampa "Quebrada del Diablo" or high plateau, with spectacular views of the desert and valleys, and on to the town of San Miguel de Azapa and lunch and a folkloric show at Restaurant 'Dona Juanita'.

After lunch we visited the San Miguel de Azapa Archeological Museum to view the Chinchorro Mummies, which date back to 6000 B.C. During the drive back to Arica, we stopped several times to view geoglyphs  (Sacred Hill and Caravans of Llamas, both 1000-1400 A.D.) Our last stop was at a handicraft village to purchase a few small souvenirs of Chile.

After a very full and tiring day, we skipped dinner in the main dining room and ate an informal meal in the Windjammer buffet before retiring early.

Tomorrow: At Sea

Monday, February 9, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 33: At Sea

Having had such a great time the previous evening, I was disappointed to wake up with a terribly sore throat, a wet cough and a stuffy head. Unable to function until almost noon, I took some medication, ate a little and headed to Team Trivia. That was enough brain exercise for me, and the rest of the day was spent taking it easy, sunbathing and floating in the Solarium pool, as the hot South American summer weather had finally returned. I managed to make it through dinner and was back in the cabin early to attempt a good night's sleep before the day trip to Arica.

I am not the only Diva down, by the way. My former roommates Carol and Jeannine are also battling what Carol has dubbed 'Kennel Cough", that upper respiratory 'thing' that has conquered easily a third of the ship by now. The informary is busy diagnosing bronchial and throat problems and nearly everyone we meet has, has had or is coming down with a bug of some sort. I think I may need to resort to stronger medication to beat this thing.


Tomorrow : Arica, Chile

Around the Horn

Day 32 : At Sea

Leg 3 of my Around-the-Horn voyage saw the Mariner sailing northwest toward Arica, our second stop in Chile. The weather improves daily, and although the day was overcast the temperature is gradually climbing. This was Day 2 of the 16-night Valparaiso to L.A. trip, and the day of our third Hornblower "Meet and Mingle". This late-morning gathering of Cruise Critic online friends gave us a chance to welcome the new people aboard and gave Dave a chance to meet my friends. He was quickly recruited for Vicki's trivia team, as were George and Sue.

At dinner that evening we changed tables and joined friends from Texas, a decision that provided us with great company and set the stage for many more dinners to come. This was also the first Formal Night of Leg 3, and we posed for professional portraits in tux and gown. Deciding to skip the Headliner Showtine , we headed to Ellington's on Deck 14 for what we thought would be a quiet drink.

Wrong. We of course met up with more friends, and left there for the Lotus Lounge, to hear one of our group sing Karaoke. Dwight did a masterful job of old favourites and ballads, prompting us to get up on the dance floor. Meeting up with more friends led us eventually to the Dragon's Lair for  more drinks and the late-night disco. A great evening and hopefully the first of many.

Tomorrow : Ar Sea

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 31: Vina Del Mar

After a great evening at the Sheraton with our new friends, Dave and I woke to a beautiful balcony view of the ocean and the Mariner docked in Valparaiso. We met George and Sue for breakfast at the hotel, and then headed out for a walk to take photos and enjoy the warm weather, a welcome change after the chilly days of Cape Horn. We walked on the beach beside the hotel and I wet my feet in the ocean, just to say that I had been there.

We met George and Sue for lunch and walked to the restaurant Castillo Del Mar for a delicious meal of fresh fish, a species known as Conger , native only to Chile, and washed down with a Cristal beer. After a few last photos it was time to head for the Mariner and the start of the final leg of our journey, the 16-night sailing to Los Angeles, California. Check-in was quick and painless, and before long we were settled in our cabin and ready for the days ahead. Dave and I spent the evening with Hornblower friends, a chance for him to get acquainted with all of the great people I with whom I have spent the last 30 days.

Tomorrow : At Sea

Around the Horn

Day 30: Valparaiso, Chile

After a late night and over-indulgence at the Super Bowl party, I managed to drag myself out of bed for a private tour arranged by Mariana, a lovely member of the Hornblowers. We (29 of us) met at Bolero's at 11:00 for the tour, and left the ship to meet Michael, our guide for the day. After a delay in order for some of our participants to exchange U.S. dollars for Chilean Pesos, the form of payment requested by the tour guide, we set off for Vina Del Mar and a photo stop  at the Flower  Clock. We then headed for a local restaurant for lunch and drinks.

The local Chilean fare was delicious, consisting of clams with parmesan cheese in a half shell and some breaded shrimp/cheese appetizers. The starter course for me was a cold salmon plate with capers, sauce and the ever-present parmesan cheese, and an entree of Chilean sea bass, a thick filet of very tasty fish. We were treated to a pre-dinner glass of the national drink of Chile, a Pisco Sour ( very tasty), white or red wine with the entree, and an apertif of anise with dessert ( a light mousse with an apricot puree). After a great meal and great company, we set out for a scenic tour of picturesque Vina Del Mar, the resort town on the outskirts of the port city, and Valparaiso itself.

Vina Del Mar is a beautiful area, with many nice hotels, restaurants and shopping.and is a safe and popular place for tourists. Valparaiso itself is huge and sprawling, with miles of colorful houses stacked together on its rolling hillsides. We were driven to a magnificent lookout point above the city, then taken on a walking tour of the UNESCO heritage area of the city, with its narrow cobblestone streets. As a final surprise, we were led to the Ascensur Conception, one of 14 'lifts' or elevators still operating in the city. This particular one dates from 1883, and took us, 7 passengers at a time, on a short but hair-raising descent into the main financial district and our waiting bus.

After a late arrival at the ship, I prepared to head to the Sheraton Miramar Hotel to meet Dave and his travelling companions from Ohio, George and Susan, for dinner.

Tomorrow : A Morning in Vina Del Mar

Around the Horn

Day 29: At Sea

The last sea day of leg 2 of our 46-night journey was spent as are most, with a late breakfast and conversation with new friends. I spent some time packing up my belongings for an unofficial transfer out of the Diva suite. My 'significant other", Dave will be joining our Hornblower group for the third and final leg of the trip, and I will be dividing my time between the Royal Family Suite and a his balcony cabin on the port side of the Mariner.

The weather is starting to improve as we sail slightly northwest to Valparaiso, Chile, where some of our group will be disembarking to return home. Some have had a wonderful 30-day vacation in the Caribbean and South America, and others have joined us in Rio for the 15-day sailing around Cape Horn. Another group, including Dave, will be sailing with us from Valparaiso to Los Angeles. So although the core group of Hornblowers has remained the same, there have been several new faces on each leg.

The Grand Finale of the Cruise Director's Trivia Bowl saw the Champion "Divas and Wannabes" dethroned by 2 other teams in a close race. All in good fun and the competition will resume on the first sea day on the third leg. Tonight there will be several Super bowl parties held onboard as Steelers and Cardinal fans gather for the big game. Since the Patriots are not involved, I am more interested in the halftime show featuring Bruce Springsteen, and will head up to the 19th Hole Bar in my team jersey to join friends and watch the game.

Tomorrow : Valparaiso, Chile

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 28: Chilean Fjords

Our day of cruising the Chilean Fjords started early, with a room service breakfast in the Royal Family Suite. Since we were to be in the Fords for just half a day, we decided to forego any ship's activities in order to spend our time enjoying the scenery. We rearranged the living room so that all seats faced toward the aft and then opened the balcony door to get a clear view of the Fjords and enjoy the brisk morning air. Hot chocolate from the Concierge Lounge added a nice homey touch as we watched the rolling hills and low-hanging clouds parade past the ship.

Because we were in the shelter of the Fjords, the ride was smooth and the winds calm. The sun broke through the clouds periodically and the temperatures started to moderate as we sailed further north towards Valparaiso.

With hills decreasing in size and the channel getting wider, we once again left the shelter of land and headed out into the Pacific Ocean. The winds picked up a little and the seas became a little higher but tolerable as we began the home stretch for the second leg of this historic journey. Some of our Hornblowers will be leaving us here, and we will say our good-byes on the last evening knowing we will in all likelihood sail together again in the future. We will add some new members to our group as well, some of whom will meet up in Santiago pre-cruise and get to know each other before heading to the port in Valparaiso.

Tomorrow: At Sea

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 27: The Straits of Magellan

We sailed through the Straits of Magellan for the whole morning and part of the afternoon. The day was misty and the wind cold, which meant that sightseeing was confined to quick runs out onto the balcony to take a short video and snap a few photos every so often. I spent the morning chatting with friends in the Concierge Lounge, and the early afternoon seated in front of the Wig and Gavel with coffee and cookies, catching up on this blog and writing emails. I had been able to send text messages from my Blackberry as we rounded the Horn two days before, and have had no problem keeping in touch with friends and family back home.

It was very evident when we left the Straits and headed out into the open waters of the Pacific, since the motion of the ship went very quickly from being barely noticable to being barely able to walk upright. I took some medication and made sure that I ate a decent supper, and was able to remain upright for the evening. I sat through the first of Mark B's sets in the pub before deciding to call it quits for the night. The Divas have plans to get up early and watch the scenery of the Chilean Fjords.

Tomorrow : Chilean Fjords

Friday, January 30, 2009

Around the Horn

Day 26: Ushuaia, Argentina: Fin de Munde (end of the World)

Late in the evening on Wednesday, we found ourselves stopped at the tiny town of Puerto Williams,Chile, whose claim is the southermost town in the world. Standing on our balcony, we were so close to town that we could not only clearly see lights from the houses and cars but also hear dogs barking and gulls crying. This stop was necessary to pick up the Harbour Pilot who would guide us down the Beagle Channel and into Ushuaia.

The next morning met us with partly cloudy skies, calm seas and little wind. We were up early to be ready for our excursion back into the Beagle Channel and on to the penguin rookery. A large catamaran picked us up directly from the ship and we headed out into the Channel.

Our first stop was to visit a colony of sea lions and cormorants on a small rock island. Next was an island nesting place of the 'blue-eyed cormorant', a seabird which closely resembles penguins in coloring.  On to a colony of rock cormorants, and then a 90 minute ride to the Grand Finale...the penguin rookery.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that we not only sailed close to the rookery, but actually put into shore so that the birds were directly off the bow of the catamaran. We spent probably 1/2 an hour filming and taking photos of the hundreds of penguins of 3 different species and laughing at their curiosity of the waves and our boat. A rainshower heralded the end of our adventure on the island and we headed back down the Channel to Ushuaia.

Back at the dock, we were allowed to disembark for some individual shopping in the port area of Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Many of the souvenirs are marked with the phrase "Fin de Munde" or "End of the World". The sun came out and the day turned warm as we headed back to the tender boats for a short ride back to the 'Mother Ship'.

Later that evening were treated to a fiest for the eyes and the soul and we sailed past three magnificent glaciers in the Beagle Channel on our way to the Pacific. Captain Johnny had promised us an "Ice Show" and he did not disappoint. We stayed on the balcony until 10:30 enjoying the incredible landscape and then retired after a most exciting day in the city at the End of the World.

Tomorrow : Cruising the Straits of Magellan.