Around the Horn

Day 21: Buenos Aires, Argentina

We met Jane, Doug and the rest of our Hornblowers group (we numbered around 20) in Bolero's Bar at 8:30 on Saturday morning for our trip to the Estancia Umbo, where we would experience the authentic Gaucho life. We were again met outside the ship by Susannah and set off in a spacious motor coach for the old town of San Antonio de Arca, then on to the Estancia.

Since we had requested a chance to shop for Argentinian leather goods, Susannah led us to a rest stop at a gas station/ shopping plaza. One of my lasting memories of Argentina will be the heady aroma of leather inside the shops. The products are of the finest quality and reasonably priced. I had my eye on a patterned cowhide purse that I had seen at a portside shop, and decided to wait until the end of the day to make my major purchase. I did buy a couple of smaller items here.

Our next stop was the old historic town of San Antonio, with its heritage buildings and beautiful Town Square. As was customary in the original cities of South America, the main Cathedral, banks, museums, and government buildings are all situated around the Square. Many of our group headed for the local market to purchase wine.

After a long bus ride we finally arrived at the Estancia. We were greeted by our gracious hosts and treated to a meat-filled turnover and a drink, then directed to a restroom to change into long pants for horseback riding. The gauchos picked out horses for each one of us and helped us up into the saddles (which were not western but tradional old Spanish, with no saddle horn and sitting on a sheepskin throw.)

The horses appeared to be very well-kept, healthy and gentle. We rode in a long line out into the fields and followed a trail around the Estancia and back to the main building. My horse did not like to be passed and would hurry to catch up to the leader, so we spent a good deal of our time trotting. I am glad now that I rode in Cabo San Lucas in November, so I felt fairly comfortable on my impatient friend. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the ride (even Carol who was mounted on a very fiesty horse which we immediately dubbed 'El Diablo' and who had to be accompanied by a gaucho at all times.....not that she minded!) Those who chose not to ride were treated to a bumpy carriage ride with much laughter.

Back at the paddock I was helped off my horse by a very handsome gaucho (who I perhaps clung to just a little longer than was necessary).We were then entertained by the gauchos who demonstrated their skills with the horses and showed us a couple of tradional gaucho 'games' played from horseback. After a quick wash to rid ourselves of a layer of dust, we settled at a long table under a tree to enjoy a lunch of salads, grilled sausage, beef and a frozen dessert, washed down by copious Malbec wine and ice water. We were entertained by an excellent duo of guitarist and vocalist, then said a reluctant farewell to the Estancia and set off on the long bus ride back to the ship.

We arrived just in time to rush into the portside shop for my leather purchases and got back on the ship 10 minutes after the all-aboard call, a little close for comfort. Fortunately we have 5 days at sea now, to recharge our batteries for Ushuaia.

Tomorrow: At Sea